The magazine of the Melbourne PC User Group
Laptop Check List
Philip Johnstone |
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If you are planning to purchase a secondhand laptop then this check list may
save you much frustration. We are now seeing many secondhand laptops coming onto the market. Many of them at
prices which make them most attractive as a second machine. These notes are intended as a checklist to help
you avoid the proverbial lemon.
Laptop PCs may be offered for sale privately by the original owners or by
dealers who have sourced a number of them from large companies. Large companies might typically update their
employees' laptops after a couple of years because the units were either under lease, out of warranty or it
was cheaper to purchase new laptops rather than upgrade the software to operate with the latest company
office network. Buying privately is attractive, as the owner should be able to provide the original manuals
and software. Buying from a reputable dealer should ensure that you get some sort of guarantee if it should
fail.
Whatever the reason for the sale, there are many useful laptops available
and yes there is probably a number with a problem that the previous owner is not prepared to live with, or
fix.
Many of the points are self evident but to miss them beforehand might be
most annoying, if not expensive later. As with any product, an honest seller with nothing to hide should not
object to your giving the PC a good work over, as it should do no harm and won't even wear the tyres from a
spirited test run!
The Main Considerations
What type of laptop?
What processor: a 386, 486, Celeron, Pentium etc? As with the desktop PC the newer the processor usually the
faster and better the performance, but note that contemporary tests of many laptops showed surprising
differences in operating performance benchmarks among units of apparently similar specifications. A 386 may
be useful for simple word processing under Win3.1, but typically such a machine would be inadequate to run
WIN9x and its battery would probably be only a Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) with a shorter life compared with later
battery technologies. Also early screen displays may be difficult to read in bright surroundings. A 486 with
say at least 16 MB RAM could run Win9x. Later models have a faster processor that consumes more power so
don't necessarily expect battery life to be far longer on the newer models. If you only want to do minor
editing of documents and don't need massive processing power then a simple 486 or Pentium 100 with a couple
of spare batteries and car adaptor might be ideal. Conversely if you want to listen to CDs, watch movies or
demonstrate software then at least a 400 MHz (or better) processor will probably be necessary. Some laptops
operate at a lower speed when running on battery to extend the battery life so be aware that performance
benchmarks could vary between running on mains power or battery.
How much RAM?
The more the better. Eight megabytes might be OK for Win 3.1 but is only just adequate for Win 9x.
Any later operating system will certainly require much more RAM. Note that buying extra RAM later can be an
expensive exercise as most are usually proprietary items for which you will pay a premium. Therefore choose a
unit with sufficient RAM already installed.
Spindles:
A 3 spindle unit has a hard disk drive (HDD), floppy (FDD) and CD ROM/DVD. A 2 spindle unit has a HDD and
either a FDD or CD-ROM drive. Some models have a bay that will accommodate a FDD, CD-ROM or even another HDD.
Unless you are into playing games or have frequent use for a CD-ROM to load new software you might find it
more useful to settle on an onboard FDD rather than CD-ROM as you can easily use this to transfer your
working files to the main PC. On the other hand if you are using a docking station or transferring files
between laptop and desktop using a cable link, then maybe the onboard CD-ROM would be more useful. If the
laptop has no onboard CD-ROM drive or accessory CD-ROM drive and you need to install new software, then you
could either borrow a portable CD drive, buy a new unit or transfer files with a cable link from the desktop
PC CD-ROM.
Case:
Most cases are generally of a plastic composition, sometimes with a metallic chassis. Later models in the
top end range might be a metal alloy having far greater strength. Check the case for damage such as cracks
and chips that could indicate the laptop has been dropped. Check the operation of the hinge - too loose and
the screen will not stay upright, too stiff and the hinge or its mounting might break as you open and close
the lid. Check the operation of the main lid clips. A broken clip might require the case and main board to be
dismantled. Check that the trap doors/sliding panels operate OK.
Accessory Slots:
Ensure the PCMCIA card slot, if available, is clear and that the card slides in and out and can be ejected
easily. A dual card slot can accommodate a double card item. The card slot can be damaged if the PC card and
cable etc. protrude far out of the case.
Battery:
If the battery is removable check that it can be easily removed and replaced and does not fall out with
movement.
Security Lock:
Check that the Kensington security lock, if fitted, is still intact and that the case has not fractured
around the hole.
Screen:
An active screen is just about essential unless you are a cave dweller. Look for TFT or Active screen in the
specifications. A passive screen will be usable only in a dark environment. Power up the screen with a white
image and examine it carefully for any "spots" in the screen indicating failed pixels. Set the brightness to
maximum and adjust the contrast (if available) to ensure that it can be read under bright lighting
conditions. A simple test is to put the screen in sunlight. A light flimsy lid can result in bands or even
screen failure if the lid is able to twist.
Floppy Drive:
Slip in a known floppy, with say a JPEG image file and check that it can be read OK. Use a plain white image
file for your screen test.
CD-ROM:
Slip in a known commercial sound or data CD and check that it works OK by noting that the CD tray slides in
and out OK (and under software control if available) and that the CD plays correctly. A sound CD will also
confirm the correct operation of the speakers and sound drivers.
Keyboard:
Check the operation of the keys. First note any loose keys. Then look from an angle to see those keys that
have been used the most e.g. E, T, N. Check these for stiffness when pushed off centre and compare their
operation with say the rarely used function keys F1, F2. The space bar should operate when pushed at either
end. Type your favourite text passage and note any errors in the displayed text. The "feel" of the keyboard
is important. Some keyboards have very little movement of the keys but are otherwise light to operate. Other
keys have a "click" feel to their action while others have a relatively large movement. With practice you
could probably get used to any keyboard but it is best to get a feel for a range of keyboard types before
going out to buy seriously.
Pointing Device:
Most laptops have a pointing device associated with the keyboard. Some brands have a peg set in the middle
of the keyboard that responds to slight movement to operate the screen pointer, plus two keys corresponding
to the mouse buttons, e.g. IBM and Toshiba. Other laptops have a touch pad that responds to the movement of
your finger across the pad and tapping the sensor pad sometimes activates a mouse button function. There will
also be the two mouse buttons associated with the pad. Some recent top end models have both peg and touch
pad. So which is best? There is no clear answer but going on numbers it would appear that the touch pad is
more popular because it is available on more brands. But it is up to you and the sort of work that you plan
to do with the laptop. The touch pad might need to be stroked a couple of times to get the pointer from one
side of the screen to the other, or from the line of text up to the tool bar yet the peg style pointer can
easily be driven all over the screen. The best approach is to play with both types of pointers in your own
time with your own projects. Once you settle on the pointer type then the range of laptops is set. Remember
that if you are not comfortable with the keyboard and mouse, using the laptop could well prove to be a
frustration.
Connectors and Leads:
Check the battery charge connector is OK and makes reliable contact in its socket. If there is a port
replicator or docking station check that the connection is reliable. If there are external floppy or CD-ROM
drives check that their connectors are OK and that they fit snugly into place.
Battery:
If the battery is removable check that it can be removed and replaced easily and does not fall out with
movement. Check if a separate battery level gauge is available on a mini LCD display or is only accessible
via software on the main screen. While you are giving the laptop a test drive run it on the battery alone so
that you can assess the typical battery life. If a separate spare battery is supplied then this might be very
useful in the field away from the mains supply. Most laptops will have a software function to discharge and
recharge the battery. Old tired batteries can often be refurbished by specialists.
Modem:
Many laptops incorporate a built-in modem. Check the speed e.g. 28 or 56k. If there is no internal modem but
a PCMCIA card slot is available then a modem card could be installed later. Some built-in modems need a
proprietary interface unit to ensure the required isolation from the telecommunications network.
Software:
Just about every laptop came with the manufacturer installed operating system. Some of the systems may have
been modified slightly with particular drivers and options etc. to complement the particular hardware. Do NOT
attempt to change or upgrade the software without first checking the the manufacturer's Web site for simple
tips, known problems or limitations with other operating systems. The first step is to get familiar with the
original installed system. Note that the instruction book and user guide may be installed as a soft copy on
the hard drive and reformatting the hard drive will lose these critical details unless you have made a
backup!
Accessories
Instruction Manual:
Most laptops come with the instruction manual and user guides available as a soft copy on the hard disk.
A separate hard copy available with the laptop will be most welcome although it is sometimes possible to
download a copy of the manual or guide from the manufacturer's Web site.
AC Power Supply:
Check that it is rated for 240 V AC and has the correct plugs at each end.
Car Power Lead or Adaptor:
Many late model laptops operate from power supplies giving greater than 12 V dc and the PC cannot be
connected directly to the 12 V dc in your car. A special converter will be required to connect the laptop to
the 12 V or alternatively a 12 V dc to 240 V ac power inverter may be used. Inability to operate from 12 V dc
may pose a problem in the field.
External Floppy and CD-ROM drives should be checked as mentioned earlier.
Port Replicator:
Check its operation. Some replicators also incorporate a folding stand to angle the laptop for easy
typing.
Final Comments
If you set out a list of your requirements e.g. processor type, keyboard and
pointer and whether you want a two or three spindle design, you can generally home in quickly on the
manufacturer and model type and restrict your search to that. Check out the computer reviews of a few years
back at your local library, if you haven't kept your back copies to compare the performance of different
models.
As with all secondhand purchases there will always be another bargain later, indeed as time goes by more
laptops will be available and the choice will widen.
Reprinted from the February 2002 issue of PC Update, the
magazine of Melbourne PC User Group, Australia
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